I don’t often post my more academic pieces here - I like to keep FrillyShirt fairly accessible as a journal, plus I’m rather protective of my in-depth work before it’s extremely polished. I will, though, share a ponderable poser which has emerged in my continuing history studies: is it possible for the self to become perceptive of the infinite cosmos within life? We are forever pushing back the boundaries of consciousness, but can they ever be transcended? Buddhism says yea, and that, in fact, those boundaries survive even death. What do other traditions say? I’m not yet sure.

Please, share your thoughts. And for those whose philosophical inclinations lie elsewhere, I’ve got some cracking posts about the philosophy of clothing and historical tomfoolery coming up. Hold onto your homburgs.

We’re planning a wedding! We’re planning our wedding. I’ll spare you the grisly details of catering plans and decorative flans, such as we’ve been inflicting on our families - but I will take the opportunity to babble on about our proposed venue!

In fact, I’ve mentioned it before - Villa Alba, a Victorian house I learned about in my continuing study of its decorators, the Paterson family. The house is now the Villa Alba Museum, and open once a month for visitors, so this week I was finally able to peek inside.

I’m going to say, without the slightest exaggeration, that it was even more beautiful than I thought. The interiors are entirely painted and stencilled, rather than wallpapered - and many rooms are decorated with murals rather than plain or even patterned designs. Between the house being vacated by its original owners in the depression of the 1890s and recent decades, many walls were painted over and the house gradually fell into disrepair, but continuing restoration has righted the structural damage and is gradually uncovering the designs below the paintwork.

I think my favourite area is the drawing room - the walls are a particular amazing deep grey, like a forest seen through mist, and the mantle is one of the original pieces of furniture. The boudoir upstairs is very special too: painted as a Moroccan palace, it was evidently originally furnished with English, Japanese, Moorish and Indian pieces. Gorgeous. One small section of the original wall design which has been uncovered reveals a sacred ibis, peering as if from a portal into the Ideal world. To think that we’ll be able to see more and more of the house as the museum continues its painstaking work. That really is something to look forward to - not a bad metaphor for marriage, really. Except that marriage rarely requires the use of solvents in bulk.

As far as I can tell, the Villa must be the grandest and best-preserved example of Aesthetic design in the country. Alas, unlike my tour of Labassa and Rippon Lea, I wasn’t really there to take photos, but you can see it for yourself on the first Sunday of the month… and hopefully there’ll be wedding photos to show before a year is out!

This is a guide for all those men out there who don’t usually dress up, but want to. Why? Because I’ve been researching clothing history for years, and suits are still frankly BAFFLING. Suits are weird! Guides to wearing suits already exist on the net, of course, but they usually say things like “a navy pinstripe suit creates a timeless air suitable for any gentleman” and then you see the page happens to be selling navy pinstripe suits this season; WHAT A COINCIDENCE. So, this is is a no-nonsense how-to for the bewildered.

To understand the idiosyncrasies of the suit, it helps to know its history. Through the nineteenth century, when upper- and middle-class men dressed for work, they wore long coats, with trousers in a different cloth. These coats are different to modern overcoats, but there’s enough to discuss there for another how-to altogether. Shorter coats were increasingly worn by workmen and for sport, and, by the twenties, short coats with matching trousers had become the norm for everyday wear.

That’s more than a hundred years of the one item of clothing being in fashion, so it’s not surprising that some weird trends, rules and customs have appeared along the way. Fit, for instance; it’s actually hard to define exactly how a suit should fit, because it’s so tied to your individual shape and size. A few base standards can be established. The trousers should be short enough that they only crease (’break’) at the ankles a little when worn, if at all. The sleeves shouldn’t intrude on the hands. If creases appear when the coat is buttoned that aren’t there when it’s open, it’s probably too tight around the body. If it fits smooth, it’s probably all right.

Jackets come in two styles: single-breasted and double-breasted. Single-breasted jackets have one row of buttons at the front, like most anything - by far the most common style. Double-breasted jackets have two rows, and are a bit tricky to figure out until you mess with one up close. Usually, the row on the left is ornamental. The left side overlaps the right, fastening with an internal button, and the buttons on the right do up like a single-breasted.

Which buttons to actually fasten is one of the stranger problems you’ll find. The bottom button on a single-breasted jacket is almost never supposed to be done up. This isn’t just an affectation - the jacket is actually sewn so that, if you do up that button, it won’t fit. Why? Because it’s craaazy! Legend has it that King Edward VII invented the fashion, because he was so extraordinarily fat that he couldn’t get that button closed anyway. Is it true? Who knows! Suits from the late 19th century show every style of buttoning used - all buttons, just the top ones, just the bottom ones, none at all! - so it seems it was once quite experimental but has since been standardised. You still see jackets which fasten all the way down, but if you have one, you’ll know about it - it will be a special piece.

If you’re considering the multitudinous merits of a waistcoat, a good fit is still important. A waistcoat should sit smoothly and snugly around the body, without folds or ripples appearing - especially around the armholes and the waistline. Most waistcoats have a strap you can adjust at the back, but that’s just for fine-tuning - it can’t make a good fit out of a bad one! You might want to hold your trousers up with braces rather than a belt, so that your waistcoat doesn’t get all bumpy. Don’t worry - even if your trousers don’t have buttons for braces, it’s genuinely the work of a moment to sew them on. Finally, I can’t force you to wear your trousers so that the waistcoat covers up their waistline, but it does look so much better!

Well, that’s Part 1 of How To Wear A Suit for beginners! Best of luck and keep and eye for Part 2!